Shoes are a curious thing, particularly in the world of fashion. What we wear on our feet can completely change the aesthetic of the clothing we wear on our bodies. For example, a woman can sport a floral, knee-length sundress with a pair of canvas flats for an easy, casual impression; or, she can pair that same dress with a kitten heel for a youthful, early evening look. In other words, shoes can completely change the tone of an outfit.

This same principle applies to those of us who enjoy creating and wearing historically inspired costume. Most of us are not reenactors (who must follow rigid historical guidelines for their costumes), but rather costume enthusiasts, and this allows us greater freedom when choosing accessories to compliment our regalia, especially shoes. And for the costume enthusiast on a budget, shoes can often be the most expensive part of his or her ensemble. There is a pocket friendly alternative to purchasing historical, vintage, or reproduction footwear: the modern department store shoe (carefully selected for its historical-like qualities, of course).

Medieval Footwear

The ghillie is a fabulous little Irish/Scottish peasant shoe that has managed to transcend fashion trends over the centuries to modern times virtually unchanged. There are reputable medieval shoe makers at most Renaissance and Medieval festivals around the country, and indeed their footwear is well made. But custom work (and most of these shops only make custom shoes, which takes months to construct) is expensive. Ghillies are not only historically accurate and comfortable, but $20-30 a pair. You can purchase ghillies online or at most dance supply stores.

Colonial/Federal Footwear

Below is an historical 18th century mule – note the pointed toe, the curved French heel, etc.

Photo compliments of www.18thcenturyblog.com

PJ, a mutual friend of mine and Tonia’s, found this pair of mules at a local thrift store for $5. Note the similar characteristics of this shoe with those of the historical shoe above: the chunky heel and elongated toe.

This pair of modern black leather BCBG booties are mine – I bought these at DSW for $14 on cleanance. Note the similar characteristics of this shoe with those of the historical shoe above: The long pointed toe and the elevated French heel.

Below is an historical reproduction of a lady’s buckled shoe from Fugawee Footwear:

Photo compliments of www.fugawee.com

Tonia bought these Tom McAn colonial style buckled shoes at Kmart for $20. Note the similar characteristics of this shoe with those of the Fugawee reproduction shoe above: A high vamp, buckle detail, and low, chunky heel.

Victorian/Edwardian Boots

Below is an historical black leather button boot, circa 1900-1910. Not only did boots of this era have low, stacked Cuban-style heels (as shown), but many boots and shoes of this era sported a low and chunky spool or French heel.

Photo compliments of www.vintagetextile.com

Tonia bought these Victorian inspired boots at Cato for $12. Note the similar characteristics of this boot with those of other boots from the era: round toe, lacing front, stacked heel, and ankle length boot shaft.

Below are a pair of Mainframe fashion leather boots I bought in 1998 at Sears for $10 on clearance (I bought these specifically for costume). Note the similar characteristics of this boot with those of other boots from the era: rounded toe, front button detail, French-style heel, and ankle length boot shaft.

The Roaring ’20s/Jazz Age Footwear

Below is a vintage example of a 1920s court shoe (pump) – note the intricate strap design across the vamp of the foot, the low, stacked Cuban-style heel, and round toe.

Photo compliments of www.vintagetextiles.com

Tonia bought these late-Edwardian/early-1920s inspired pumps at Cato for $12. Note the similar characteristics of this shoe with those of the vintage shoe above: intricate strap detail across the vamp, round toe, and low stacked heel.

These vintage, two-tone tawney and black Oxfords are a lovely example of a shoe design favored by fashionable ladies of the late-Edwardian/early-1920s period. Note that the shoe is constructed in two pieces (toe and shoe body) – other details to consider are the round toe, Mary Jane-style buttoned strap across the vamp, and a low French-style heel.

Photo compliments of www.antiquedress.com

I bought these Bandolino leather wingtip Oxfords at DSW for $25 on clearance. I use them for both Edwardian and 1920s costuming. Note the similar characteristics of this shoe with those of the vintage shoe above: round toe, Oxford construction, Mary Jane-style button strap over the vamp, and a low heel.

Below are a flashy pair of metallic, two-toned leather sandals from the early-1920s. Note the round toe, open sides, buckling T-strap at the ankle, and low heel.

Photo compliments of www.marcelwave.blogspot.com

I bought these 1920s inspired sandals at JC Penny’s on clearance for $5. I specifically bought these for costuming. Note the similar characteristics of this shoe with those of the vintage shoe above: round toe, open sides, two-toned color, buckled T-stap at the ankle, and low heel.

1940s Footwear

Here is a darling pair of mid-1940s vintage beach sandals. Note the peep-toe, tie-strap around the ankle, and the wedged heel.

Photo compliments of www.stylehive.com

Tonia bought her 1940s inspired beach sandals at Target for $20 – note the similar characteristics of this summer shoe with those of the vintage summer shoe above: the peep-toe, tie-strap at the ankle, and wedged heel.

Below: Another lovely pair of vintage (dress) sandals – note the peep toe, platform, ankle strap, and block heel.

Photo compliments of www.1940s.org

Tonia bought these 1940s inspired dress sandals at Baker’s for $10 on clearance (I do love these shoes – it’s a shame my foot is a size and a half bigger than hers). Note the similar characteristics of this sandal with those of the vintage sandals above: the peep toe, platform, ankle strap, and block heel.

Booties (characterized by the shoe shaft not extending above the ankle bone) were very popular beginning in the 1940s – the avert below gives a good idea of some of the design variations of the time:

Photo compliments of www.glamourdaze.com

Here is a comfortable pair of mid-1940s leather and canvas booties with a silk bow accent:

Photo compliments of www.1940s.org

Tonia bought these wingtip booties at Cato for $20:

I bought these Steve Madden wingtip booties on clearance at DSW for $25:

I also bought these Nine West leather Oxford booties at DSW on clearance for $25:

Note the similar characteristics of these booties with those booties in the vintage advert and photo above: the shoe shaft does not extend above the ankle bone, round toe, lacing front, Oxford design, a low Cuban-style or block heel.

Of course, none of our modern shoe examples are exact in all historical aspects of their inspired (or ascribed) shoe era, but they do have key design attributes that make them usable for historically inspired costume. The trick is to know what makes a Victorian shoe a “Victorian shoe”, or what makes a 1940s bootie a “1940s bootie”. Making note of these style details will help you in choosing an appropriate modern alternative to an historical, vintage, or reproduction shoe.

Happy shopping – happy sewing!

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